A threaded T47 bottom bracket sized for Shimano 24mm, SRAM DUB or 30mm cranks — cups thread into the frame instead of pressing in, so nothing works loose or creaks.
SKU: AUT47BB
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For Australian customers, expected delivery is typically 2–6 business days. Deliveries are sent via Australia Post with tracking provided. International delivery can take 3 weeks or more to arrive.
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Sealed to keep water and grit out, and stainless so they hold up in wet winters without seizing. The 46mm shell lets us run a larger bearing (42mm internal OD) than a traditional outboard setup, which means more contact area and a longer service life.
The defining feature of T47. The cups thread directly into the frame rather than pressing in, which is what stops the long-term creep and creak that plagues press-fit. Threaded in means threaded out — full service without a bearing press.
68mm covers most road and gravel frames; 73mm covers MTB. An adjustable sleeve handles the range, so one bottom bracket spans both.
Shimano/24mm is the lightest and most widely compatible (Shimano Hollowtech II, FSA, RaceFace). SRAM DUB/28.99mm suits modern SRAM road, gravel and MTB builds. 30mm is the stiffest, for White Industries, ROTOR and BB30/PF30 cranks — and the whole reason T47's larger shell exists. The spindle choice also sets which spacer/preload kit ships with the BB.
Two things decide fit: your frame’s shell width and your crank’s spindle diameter. Get both right and everything else follows.
The spindle is a property of your cranks, not your frame — pick the option that matches what you already run. Not sure? Check the crank maker’s spec, or read the spindle breakdown in the Specifications tab.
Tools needed: BB386 bottom bracket tool (16 notch, 50mm diameter), torque wrench, grease or threadlocker, a clean rag. Optional: a thread-facing tool if your shell hasn't been faced.
Clean the frame threads thoroughly. Old grease and grit are the usual cause of a creak later.
Grease or apply threadlocker to the cup threads. A faced, flat shell helps everything seat square.
Thread each cup in by hand first to avoid cross-threading. Note the threading is reversed — the drive-side cup is left-hand thread, the non-drive side is right-hand — so your pedalling tightens them, not loosens them.
Torque to spec using the BB386 tool. Don't over-tighten; snug and square is the goal.
Fit any spindle-side spacers and the wavy washer (included with the matching spindle kit) to set chainline and preload.
If it ever creaks down the track, it's almost always a prep issue, not a fault: remove, clean, re-grease and reinstall.
Auren designs and builds in Melbourne. One workshop, one builder, frames made by the person you can actually reach.
Every Auren titanium bike comes out of a simple idea. Founder and engineer Will Young wanted to build custom titanium the way it should be done: a frame shaped around the rider, not picked from a range. Your geometry, your parts, your bike, designed with you from the first conversation to the final build.
Building direct means there's no dealer between you and us. When you're planning a build, talking through your fit, or need something sorted years down the track, you talk to Will, the person who made the bike. Every Auren titanium is built to last decades and backed by real support that doesn't disappear after delivery.
That's reflected in our reviews: five stars across Google and Trustpilot.
Not sure something will fit, or which option matches your build? Chat with Will over email or on a call before you order.
info@aurenbikes.com.au Enquire